I Survived "Surfed" Hurricane Ana!

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welcome to Hurricane Ana day! 2 days ago Sugiyama-san called me to ask if we are still going to surf because of the hurricane. i told him, “hawaii is an island so somewhere is offshore. i’m surfing anyway so let’s go!” so today, we go! a beautiful newlywed couples first time to hawaii.
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Yuka-san is very energetic so i knew she would stand up on her first wave.
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yes, Yuka-san’s first wave! welcome to the wonderful world of surfing!
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Sugiyama-san asked me to teach him how to bottom turn. i taught him on the beach, then taught him from the side, and taught him after every wave. like strict military style training. haha. perfect take off!
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more pressure on the back foot than the front. look at the rainbow tower and go!
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put it on your rail and head towards diamond head. good job Sugiyama-san! sorry about my finger in the photo. haha.
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all of a sudden, i could feel the winds changing, the current getting stronger, and the rain coming. i love watching nature change its mood so quickly. it was time for lunch.
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i love meeting people, especially japanese people that come to hawaii for the first time.
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local food? poke bowl! after lunch, we go to sightsee on the north shore. while they are shopping in haleiwa, i check out the waves and find out that today is the ultimate best conditions for Sugiyama-san to make his north shore debut. we head to the beach, get ready, and jump in.
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i could imagine how nervous it is to make your debut on the north shore of oahu. pretty scary to be exact, especially when there is a hurricane heading straight towards us.
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had a bunch of kids enjoying the perfect waves!
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i caught my very first wave of my life right here at haleiwa when i was 7 years old. i will never ever forget that moment.
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Sugiyama-san charging. after a while, the kids moved down to the side and we had the lineup to ourselves.
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this is a perfect bottom turn Sugiyama-san!
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if you are a surfer, you know the feeling of riding good waves. and you can’t help but smile!
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of course, i have to catch my fair share of waves too. after this session, we speed back to bowls for Yuka-san’s turn to surf.
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the hurricane was in full swing! windy, strong current, rainy, stormy, and big waves. i love the challenge!
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Yuka-san riding Hurricane Ana’s waves! and of course, i’m right behind her making sure she doesn’t get swept by the current to the channel. it was pretty dangerous out there.
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we are still soaking wet, cold, but head to waiola shave ice for a treat. 3 wonderful surf sessions!
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after i drop off Mr. and Mrs. Sugiyama-san, i drive through waikiki thinking how bummed japanese tourist are because of the hurricane. for tourists, it sucks. but for surfers, it’s awesome. a day that the 3 of us will remember forever.
We Surfed Hurricane Ana!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide