rained all day long. i loved this relaxing day to work on getting my house back into shape. blood, sweat, and tears. started at 6:30am and still going now at 7:30pm nonstop. rain should be stopping and sun coming out tomorrow. bye bye hurricane ana!
i use to compete for about 10 years of my life. like everybody else, i use to hate to lose. sometimes it’s easy, and sometimes it’s hard. i usually shook it off pretty quick. throughout the years, i seen other competitors get into fights, throw things at the judges, swear, punch themselves, and even break their own surfboard.
i woke up at 5am and watched the contest live from portugal. kelly slater is a fierce competitor. the greatest in the sport of surfing. he had 3 chances in the past 3 contests to take the world title ranking lead, but blew it. today kelly took his loss pretty bad.
after his heat, he went to the competitors area and demolished his own surfboard. he broke it into 3 pieces. omg!
yes, 3 pieces. it takes a lot of power or a lot of frustration to break a board into 3 pieces. then he ran back to the beach, and gave the pieces away.
yes, his fans were still happy, but i bet his sponsors and shaper weren’t. poor sportsmanship? you decide. kelly hates to lose and i’m wondering what this 11 time world champion will do next? and to all you kids that want to become a pro surfer, learn how to win. and learn how to lose. please don’t break your surfboard. instead, give it to a kid that really needs one.
one of the reasons why i quit surfing contests was because of the stress. i chose the lifestyle to be a traveling surfer. just go around the world looking for great waves. the most stress free job in the world. and to experience simple lifestyles like this makes me appreciate everything i have.
indo style kitchen. so simple.
this kind woman invited me into her house and made me a special drink. i took a sip and almost threw up. haha. but i tried it anyway.
portugal contest finals tomorrow. the world champion will be determined at the Pipeline Pro in december. see you there!
