good evening. i was thinking about something today. thinking about the first 2 years i lived in japan. back then, there was no internet and no cellular phones. so the only way to check the waves was to drive down and look for yourself. i use to get up every morning at 6:30am and drive 30min to the nearest beach, which was kugunuma. look there, and drive all the way to some river mouths up the coast. sometimes it took 40min, and sometimes it took 2 hours. depended on the traffic. but i use to do that every day for 2 years. so i was thinking about all the flat days were i would drive all around and go back home at 1pm without even surfing. that sucked. then i would remember the good days where i’d score perfect waves with nobody around. yeah, nobody around. i surfed hanamizu, banyu, and other secret river mouths before all by myself. now the we have good surf forecast websites and everybody with cellular phones, things will never be the same. do i prefer the old days? or the new hi tech days? i think i like it how it was before. just the feeling of not knowing how the waves are until you pull up to the beach was exciting for me. now days, i already know before i leave the house. i think surfers now days are too spoiled. or too lucky. and i feel kind of sorry that they will never experience the feeling i use to experience every morning here in japan. rain, or shine, or snow, just go. and when you score epic waves by yourself, it’s all worth it..
i went back into my inbox folder and started throwing away old emails. then i came across this one gordinho sent me. this was this past winter but it felt like years ago… after being in japan all this time, now i really want to get back to hawaii and get barreled. and spit out… i miss surfing big waves….. ahhhhh….
this is my office. the best office in the world. backdoor…. i remember this wave well. i pulled in this barrel just for the photo. almost got hit in the face by a water housing, and broke my board. not a good day in the office…. but i ain’t complaining…. 7 photographers? nuts….
and check out this guys office. now that’s one office i wouldn’t want to be in. hope his company has a good life insurance plan…..
