Keep on Surfing….

250


i was standing in a parking lot when Yasu-san from japan came up to me and asked if he can buy a tshirt. i didn’t know who Yasu-san was, but now i do. thank you Yasu-san for supporting the earthquake/tsunami victims. WE ARE ONE!
**wanted to say something to all japanese surfers. i heard the japanese government and JPSA is saying to stay out of the water. gosh, i’m stuck in the middle of that one. first, yes, i bet it’s still dangerous because of the aftershock earthquakes that might send another tsunami. second, if something happens, your taking the valuable resources of medical aid that could be used elsewhere. and last, if you surf, a lot of people in japan will look down at you and think your either crazy, or stupid. for me? i would go back to surfing. why? because that’s my life. it sounds kind of selfish but i’m just being honest. i know that it’s impossible to keep surfers out of the ocean because it’s like trying to keep monkeys out of the forest. no way. what can be done? well, maybe the japanese government and the JPSA should team up and find out when would be a good day to open up the ocean again. call it Surf Revival Day? that way, it will give the thousands of surfers in japan something to look forward too. then they can get back to their daily routine without being looked down on. refreshing their body and souls with hope. if this ever happens, please let me know when that date is because i will try my hardest to be there. i’ve probably said “Keep on Surfing” a thousand of times in my life and i really mean it. “KEEP ON SURFING!”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide