Naoka and Taka-san were the first in the water. the conditions couldn’t have been any better than this. these are the kind of days surfers like us dream of.
then Makichan and Yukochan paddled out to show the boys how to surf. haha.
Takasan must have caught 60 waves in the past 2 sessions. so stoked to see him enjoying surfing so much.
i let Naoka use my board but didn’t give him a leash. the reason is he usually falls too much. but yesterday, he only fell once and had to swim very far to get his board. other than that, perfect rides.
Yukochan has a very smooth style. every wave doing a deep bottom turn and setting up for the kill. what a nice wave!
Makichan just started short boarding a few years ago. now she throws more sprays then some of the boys. welcome to women’s power surfing.
Takasan on cutback number 40?
i told you Yukochan surfs smooth. just perfect style on this cutback.
Reid surfs bowls almost everyday of his life. so surfing with him at another spot is fun. different kind of waves, and different kinds of sharks here. haha. nice bottom turn.
i’m not sure if it’s me or my board but i’m having so much fun surfing recently. my single fin works so good and is so fun to ride that i feel like a kid surfing for the first time. my first surfboard in the 1970’s was a single fin and that’s why i ordered this one 13 years ago. to bring back the memories and get back to the basics of surfing. i’m hooked on surfing again!
and yes, if you put a single fin on the rail, you will generate enough speed to do turns like you do on your thruster. on my next trip, i’m taking this board with me! this is my magic single fin board of my life!
