had an awesome time with Ichikawa Koji-san and Kaimu-san. father and son surf team that just love to surf. we were driving out to the north shore but the traffic wasn’t moving so we turned around and surfed rockpiles. great call because it was so empty!
Koji-san’s been surfing for 25 years. he knows japanese surf culture so well so we were talking about the good old days. he said he use to go watch the ASP Marui Pro contests 20 years ago in chiba when guys like Derek Ho, John Shimooka, Martin Potter, and other old school surfers where there. the funny thing is i competed in those contests too. it made me feel pretty old. haha. but here is Koji-san with the very nice stylish bottom turn.
Kaimu-san’s been surfing for 6 years. surfs good but couldn’t do a cutback. before we paddled out, he asked me how to do one. i explained on the beach, he paddled out, and he did some nice cutbacks today! perfect board on the rail, perfect bending the knees, and perfect looking up. great job Kaimu-san!
we surfed until dark. as the sun set, the friday night sailboat races started. it was absolutely beautiful! Koji-san paddling for a nice set.
19 years old and enjoying the beauty of hawaii. what a lucky kid.
Koji-san on another nice wave.
we came in at dark and luckily got this photo before we left. stoked to meet another cool father and son surfing team. what a great way to create a relationship that will keep them connected forever. and omg, i need a haircut!
and thank you guys for the gouter de roi! how did you know i love this? itadakimasu!
