Surf and Recovery Day

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got up at 4am, left to the north shore at 5:30am, got barreled at 6:40am, got another barrel at 7am, came in at 7:30am, went to haleiwa at 7:45am, shot photos till 8:30am, then got back to town at 9:30am. i got barreled, Naoka got photos, i got photos, Naoka got waves, we ate a chocolate donut, and came home both satisfied. then i loaded up the truck again, went surfing with the girls at bowls, came in at 12:30, got great waves, then back home at 1pm. then been working tirelessly on trying to recover the photos and video i lost yesterday. a long day? or should i say a very long morning. i’m very tired but the barrels this morning is keeping me going strong! welcome to backdoor!
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we are Go-Naminori! driving back from the north shore with Naoka. we both caught good waves and got good photos. gallery will be up soon. i was telling Naoka on the way back, “great lifestyle i live yeah?” haha.
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the waves at diamond head were really good too! just a perfect day for surfing here in hawaii.
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check out this photo of pipeline Toda-san took with his drone! amazing! welcome to Todaheli!
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i learn from my mistakes. i spent a total of 7 hours researching on my computer trying to get back the files i lost. i learned a lot! hopefully i will recover the deleted photos. but even if i don’t, i know what is recoverable and what isn’t recoverable. here’s a little advise to you: if you have any naked or crazy photos you don’t want anybody to see, burn the phone or sd card. if you don’t, i could find it even if you delete it. haha.
gotta get ready for our Red Sea barbecue in kaneohe now. going to be a great dinner with friends! i know i will gain 5lbs. tonight. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide