yesterday’s early morning session couldn’t have felt any better. just driving out to the north shore is so exciting for me. paddling out wondering if i’ll get barreled or not. my first wave i got barreled and i was already satisfied. then my 3rd wave came in and when i took off, i already knew i was going to get a nice barrel. so stoked! thank you Naoka for taking this photo of my early morning winter barrel. many more to come!
then coming back to town and experiencing such a beautiful day surfing with these two beautiful girls.
every session getting better. my dream for these two teenage best friends is for them to be able to surf forever. a bond that can’t be broken.
stoked to get updates on the progress of my new board being produced in shikoku, japan.
i can’t wait to ride it! thank you TSSC and Mike Woo for all the hard work!
