Welcome to a Man's Mind

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it’s so weird how a man’s mind works. men want toys. men need toys. and men get toys. when they find something they want, they will find any and every way to get it. it’s something women will never understand. haha.
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ever since i was a kid, i always wanted a dirt bike. i went into the mountains on borrowed bikes that broke down on me. my friends always had the top of the line models. i couldn’t afford one. that was 25 years ago when i didn’t have money because i didn’t save money. now i save money so i can buy the things i want. my brother and nephews have been avid dirt bike riders for the past 20 years. i wasn’t interested because of all those memories i had in the mountains with the junk borrowed bikes. then as i was driving home the other day, i seen this guy on a blue motorcycle coming out of the valley with a dirt bike. an enduro to be exact. an enduro is a dirt bike that can also be ridden on the street. so i come home and research what i seen. this was it! a 2015 Yamaha WR250R. omg, i want one! i can ride around town, get bored, then take it into the mountains. i know some long hiking trails that lead to beautiful panoramic views that i would love to ride too. now the hunt is on! i gave out the word to friends that i’m looking for one. and as soon as i find a good used one, i’m buying it and heading to the mountains!
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i was actually going to put some surf racks on too. then after a morning surf, i can go ride some trails somewhere. i’m getting pretty excited. don’t be surprised if you see me smoking up and down the mountains and streets someday soon. i’m a man. men want toys. and men get toys. haha.
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a lot of intermediate level surfers ask me how to do a cutback. it’s pretty simple. you turn your arms, body, and head in the direction you want to go. and you will go. most intermediate level surfers tend to look down so they go down. understand? look at my eyes, i’m following the line i want to go too. got it?
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been looking at the world surf forecast closely. things are changing by the day. i’m not too worried about it because i learned how to go with the flow. the ocean will predict my destination. and where i will be next week will be up to her. simple.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide