Rack of Ham and Sunset Fever

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welcome to winter in hawaii. it’s pretty dam cold and doesn’t get colder than this. i’m wearing sweatpants, sweatshirt, socks, and i’m still cold at night. still warmer than 0 degrees japan so can’t complain.
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finally downloaded the photos of my trip. on my first night in tokyo, i was lucky to eat a special order leg of a ham. aged 3 years and by far the best ham i’ve ever eaten in my life. this is fine dining japanese style! i wish i can have another piece.
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everybody loves japanese candy. thank you Toda-san!
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when we where checking the waves in taiwan, Mori-san got out his Steiner Navigator binoculars. one look into the german made $2,000 binoculars, i could see for miles away. clear and crisp. now i know what i’m buying myself for christmas!
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woke up this morning expecting chest high waves. i was wrong! it was overhead and perfect! i went to surf bowls and got so many perfect long barreling waves. one of my best sessions of 2014. so stoked!
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coming off an airplane and paddling out into warm water yesterday felt so good. i really expected the waves to be super small but i was still excited. especially when i seen head high sets and perfect conditions!
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teaching kids how to surf is so rewarding. watching them getting better and better makes me as happy as they are.
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and once you can duck dive, you will see another beautiful world.
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i planned to go out and catch a couple of waves but it was so good that i didn’t want to come in. perfection! it’s been a very lucky year for me when it comes to getting good waves. i hope that luck continues forever!
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from japan to taiwan to japan to hawaii. sunset after sunset after sunset. the best way to end a perfect day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide