Heisman Trophy: Congratulations Hawaii!

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the Heisman Trophy is awarded annually to the most outstanding player in college football. it was created in 1935 and never has a football player from hawaii ever came close to winning it. well, this year was different.
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oregon quarterback Marcus Mariota won it! born and raised in hawaii with a proud polynesian background making history. i watched his interview after winning the trophy and he said “if one person in hawaii is successful, the whole hawaii is successful.” i think it was an amazing speech and i’m sure the whole entire state of hawaii, including all the polynesian islands in the south pacific are very proud of this amazing athlete. what a great role model!
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back to south/east taiwan. everybody in hawaii asking me how it was. all i have to say is “excellent.” Kimura-san on an excellent wave.
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Hayato Maki on the long bottom turn with his selfmade handshaped 5’3.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide