once again, the waves at bowls was really good! head high and super perfect conditions. smaller than yesterday but everybody still happy with this surprise swell. was stoked to be surfing so close to my home and enjoying such a beautiful day. can’t wait for tomorrow!
20 years ago i put one shorts and one tshirt in my backpack and explored taiwan. at that time, i traveled up and down the coast from taipei to kenting and didn’t see one single surfer. found some really good waves but couldn’t find a surfboard anywhere. i don’t think anybody even surfed back then. on this past trip, i seen about 20 surfers just enjoying the ocean. no localism, no bad vibes, and no dropping in. just a bunch of taiwanese surfers enjoying the ocean like we all should. seen some great surfing and i can’t wait for the day one of these guys goes on the world tour. that would be so cool!
everybody having fun! the double taiwanese shaka!
on my first few waves, i had my gopro in my right hand. took off on a pretty big wave and did 3 turns and one cutback. here is my bottom turn on a perfect point left.
surfing in another country is always interesting. it’s just something totally different than surfing here in hawaii. i love the ride! and i love my 6’0 Matchi shape by TSSC.
on our last session, Kimura-san got caught by 30 or so big sets! i seen solid 6′ powerful waves break on him over and over. it looked like a marathon but he survived. happy to see him never giving up!
last, check out this video of 2014 japan summer sessions. just a taste of japanese surfing and japanese culture from above. thank you Todaheli@gmail.com for putting together this wonderful video.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YE3ARN7yKFM[/youtube]
