Hawaii Magazine….

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i surfed twice, once at bowls and rockpiles. then surfed again at lighthouse in the afternoon. went for a swim, a short hike, and some yoga to finish my day. oh, and not to mention my 3 hour nap…. going to do it all again tomorrow…. goodnight.

check out this train crash in china today. 70 dead and 400 injured. shit, when i was on a train similar to this one the other day, i was thinking about it crashing too. it was so old and didn’t look too safe. things like this can happen at any given day. that’s pretty scary when i think about it…

check out the new Hawaii Magazine. just got it in the mail. wanted to thank my friend darin isobe for sending it to me…

and wanted to thank darin for using my photo for this spread. cool layout. i’m super stoked….

when i got off the plane and came home, my brother asked me to cut this aku or katsuo for him. cleaning fish was the last thing i wanted to do. but when lunch time came around, i was thinking that a katsuo donburi sounded good. so a katsuo donburi is what i ate.. it was so good….

speaking of cleaning fish. i was walking through a night market in a little village in thailand and seen this girl cleaning fish. i wish we had these in hawaii so i don’t have to clean fish all the time. i’d be there everyday, with fish or without fish.. haha…. just joking….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide