good morning. 6:45am and the waves are up. chest/shoulder high and on the rise. i think thursday will be the biggest day so this swell should last a long time. 25 guys out at bowls already and a lot of surfers at the park too. diamond head looks solid 4′. i’m kind of excited. be careful for the box jellyfish today. have a nice day. i’m out of here…. oh wait, i just seen a solid 4′ at the big bowl. gosh, if it’s 4′ already, this swell might get up to 6 or 7 feet by tomorrow. see you in the water….
**it was seth’s first day in japan. after a long drive from narita airport, we arrived in yugawara. thanks to tokura-san for putting us up on a sweet ryokan onsen hotel. after some good baths, and great buffet breakfast, we headed to the beach. the waves were small and the water was cold but good enough for the kids. they were having fun and that’s all that matters… check out this clip….
