good evening… gosh, what an awesome day of surfing. surfed for 4 hours and had a lot of fun. i learned how to surf at this secret spot called seconds about 27 years ago. and i haven’t been back there since high school. well, until today… checked it this morning and it was perfect with only 3 guys out. from the paddle out, to my first wave, to the walk back in, the memories just kept on coming and coming. remembering riding my bike down to carter’s house after the school bell rang, racing out to the lineup, surfing till evening, the shark stories, our little surf gang, racing back to carter’s house for the shower, and everything. all good memories of being a kid. i even pulled into a closeout barrel just to see how it felt. gosh, i felt like i was in high school again. had a great memorial session….
the weather was cloudy today but who cares? the waves were going off all day long…. i’m surfed out but still need more….
i was hanging out with ito-san and goto-san from hiroshima all day today. these two guys started surfing 5 years ago and are super stoked on it… it was cool to see them enjoying surfing as much as they did….
down in tahiti was crazy a few days ago. big and dangerous… this is the same swell that’s hitting our south shores right now and the best is yet to come. i’m getting up early tomorrow and surfing all dam day. please stay out of my way.. haha… see you in the water….
CLICK HERE FOR THE CRAZY ASS VIDEO OF TAHITI….
and last, thank you so much naohiro and family for bringing the fresh yamari shirasu from wakayama. oh my gosh…. i’m so happy…..
