Hanging out in Isonoura…

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good morning. 6:45am on this windy cloudy high surf advisory tuesday morning. bad weather again but the waves look good. solid 4′ in town with bowls the biggest. got 12 guys sitting at the big bowl. the park is packed and looks a little smaller. heard big rights was packed all day yesterday. well, now it’s going to be more crowded because i’m out there. see you in the water…. oh, by the way, north shore got some little waves breaking this morning. everybody go surf!!!

did you know i can bake? felt like eating something sweet so went to longs to pick up some brownie mix. mixed it up and stick it in the oven at 350 degrees.

30min later, take it out of the oven…

and ate a warm piece with a glass of cold milk… then got a sugar rush and couldn’t sleep last night….
**when ever i’m in wakayama, kimura-san always takes me to the fishing port right in front of his house. i like to hang out there and see what the fishermen bring in. lobsters? fish? shirasu? tako? i don’t know, everyday is different. that’s the cool thing…. check out this days catch….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide