good evening… surfed for over 4 hours today. big rights was pretty fun in the morning. over head and clean conditions. got a few barrels so i was stoked. nobody was out when i got out then when i was about to go in, all the boys came out. ronnie, cedric, nick, and others. i went in to eat lunch and have my brownie with a glass of milk. i knew it was a matter of time when they would all come in so i waited and paddled back out at 2pm. sure enough, they just came in. good timing!!! the waves got bigger and better. only kyle and a few other guys out. score!!! the waves were pumping. got barreled again and went in after 4pm. then as i was paddling in, ronnie, nick, and more of the boys were paddling out. i gave them a handshake with a big smile on my face… i guess they saw my last barrel… haha… i had a great day surfing today and can’t wait till tomorrow to do it all over again… thanks to all the boys out at big rights for sharing that special wave… and sorry if i caught too many today. i know you guys understand that i haven’t surfed for a while… right?? see you tomorrow….
this is bowls at 11am. no parking, a lot of surfers, and perfect peeling lefts. i seen my nephew micah in the parking lot and asked him how the waves were. he told me “shitty”. i wanted to give him a good scoldings…. that kid doesn’t know what “shitty” is….
as i was pulling out of bowls, i seen this truck with the coolest sticker on the back window. it said “I just want to get barreled”. i pulled on the side to ask where she got that sticker from but the girl was talking on the phone so i couldn’t get her attention. gosh, i really want that sticker… oh, and wanted to say hi to the japanese guy and girl that pulled on the side of me at the stop light. thanks for checking out my blog… sorry i couldn’t stop to talk. the light turned green so had to go.. hope to see you somewhere sometime again…. mahalo…
yet another surfer killed from a shark. that’s two people dying from shark attacks this week. gosh, that’s really sad….
and last, don’t forget that we’re at war right now. even though this week has been the most deadliest for american troops, the innocent get caught in the crossfire too. during war, nobody wins. we all lose…
