Ogisako-san caught some really good waves the other day. wave after wave, long ride after long ride.
always smiling and stoked on surfing.
morning sunlight with diamond head in the background. great surfing Ogisako-san!
then yesterday another sunrise surf session. it’s my first time meeting surfers from Slovakia. a very cool couple with cool stories about surfing, skiing, wakeboarding, and bali surf lessons.
coming from the other side of the world all the way to hawaii. i ask them “why did you decide to come to hawaii? answer was “because we want to surf!” great choice!
Jan is a very big man. he’s gotta be about 6’4. super good balance, super good coordination, and super good surfing. i’m sure he will get really good really fast.
Martina took a surf lesson in bali. her instructor took her to Changu. omg! Changu? if you’re familiar with Changu, it is absolutely not a place to learn how to surf. that wave is very dangerous, very shallow, and very for the experienced. anyway, she got hurt there. but this woman never gave up. before we paddled out, she was very cautious and asked many questions about reef, sharks, reef, and sharks. haha. she didn’t want to get hurt or eaten by a shark. come to find out, she’s a model! now i understand.
