another marathon surfing day! 2 rounds surfed at total 5.5 hours today. i just added up the past 3 days of surfing and it came out to 16 hours of surfing!!! caught about a hundred waves and super stoked on life right now. today i took Inoue-san surfing and he caught the most waves in his life too. i’d say he rode over 45 waves today we scored wave after wave and was in the best rotation and position. we were totally satisfied and totally stoked on surfing.
then us hungry surfers went to eat the best pork bowl on the island. i’ll tell you where tomorrow.
then we ate the best shave ice on the island. you already know where that is.
then we went to check the waves at diamond head.
gosh, if this was japan, there would be a hundred guys out surfing. we ended up going back to our little spot and surfed our brains out. watched the sunset, did some cleaning and killing bugs at diamond head, and now i’m going to eat dinner and sleep by 9pm. tomorrow i’m surfing 3 rounds, and pretty much 2 or 3 rounds everyday until january 15th. then i’m going to take a vacation!
stoked to see so many japanese enjoying our beautiful winter season on the south shore. as for the north shore, it’s been the worst winter season that i can remember.
ok, 10 years after the huge earthquake and tsunami in the indian ocean. Banda Aceh to be exact.
the epicenter was right near the Banyak Islands where i was a few months ago. the earthquake and tsunami killed over 220,000 people.
it’s scary what the ocean can do. it’s scary that another airplane just vanished from the air. it’s a scary world we live in so all i can say is “Live your life to the fullest everyday with every minute and every breath.” that’s what i’m doing.
