ok, 2 more days till 2015 and i don’t even have time to think! seemed like 2014 went by so fast! glad i have this blog to keep my daily journal of things that happened and are happening because it’s just too much for me to remember. yesterday seems like months ago, and months ago seems like years ago. trying to slow down but can’t seem to do it. i’m riding the endless wave and it’s so hard to get off this amazing ride!
i meet the coolest people everyday. people from all parts of japan, and all parts of the world. Mako-chan and Kawano-san have such a great relationship. surfing together must be a dream for this father and daughter team.
paddling out is always exciting. i can see the nerves, but after the first wave, it’s all gone!
Mako-chan’s first wave of the day! she did such a great job. look forward, bend your knees, and enjoy the ride.
and yes, a smile can say a thousand words. in this case, it was a great wave smile. gosh, this girl is so cute!
Kawano-san surfs really good. been surfing for 30 years and knows the history of surfing in japan. super stoked to meet real surfers as there is so much to talk about. and yes, it’s a small tight world.
when ever i take kids surfing, my main focus is safety, and happiness. essential for a great ride.
then took Team Slovokia surfing right after for surfing day 2. Jan has very good coordination and balancing skills. maybe it’s from all those years of skiing the slopes in his country. i got him on a smaller board during the session and you should have seen his face after his first wave. in surfing language, we say “pure stoked!”
then Martina kept on getting better and better too. things were going so good for us until she stepped on a sea urchin. it’s like stepping on a needle. but hey, pain is good sometimes. soak your foot in vinegar, get back up, and go surfing again. simple. surfers are tough and that’s what makes us strong both in and out of the water.
i see wedding after wedding day after day here in hawaii. i think it’s a great place and a great way to start off a new life. love is beautiful, and so is hawaii.
