had an awesome day with Konishi-san. we surfed for over 5 hours today! lots of waves and lots of improvement. so stoked to see her surfing better and better after each wave. from longboarding and just going straight in the morning, Konishi-san was shortboarding and going up and down all afternoon. waves were perfect!
after our long morning session, we went to eat healthy. Konishi-san had the Avocado Sandwich from Andy’s.
i had the tofu casserole with kombucha. so good, so healthy, and so happy.
then we went up to tantalus to get some fresh air and rest our stomachs. then straight back to surf another long round. see you again on sunday Konishi-san. hope you get some good rest.
a great day and almost perfect. BUT, as just the two of us were enjoying the whole ocean surfing (yeah, nobody else was out), this idiot guy came out with his 18′ huge canoe board, and started paddling for a wave. he rode one right between us as we were were waiting for a wave. came so close, too close. of course he wasn’t from hawaii because hawaiian watermen have more respect than that. after he came back out, i told him “hey, we have this whole ocean with nobody else out, why do you have to ride that dangerous canoe board right in between us? he said “hey man, i’m just trying to enjoy the ocean just like you guys. i know what i’m doing.” of course, he said it in a very cocky way. then i told him “if you come near us again, i’m going to go in, grab my boat, and run your dumb ass over!” then he left.
the ocean is for all of us, we should all enjoy it together. but at the same time, we must also respect each others space and safety. simple right?
anyway, going to dawn patrol north shore tomorrow morning. the waves are going to be big and epic! can’t wait!
