Bamboo Forest Crash

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had another super fun 3.5 hour surfing session with Mio-san yesterday evening. i watched this girl transform from a longboarder to a shortboarder in just 2 days. surfing really solid, catching her own waves, and enjoying every ride. super stoked for her!
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Thank you Mio-san for the goodie bag! i love japanese culture and love getting treats like this.
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someday i will be able to read kanji. but for now, i’ll just take my chances and eat everything i get. so far, so excellent.
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i was fixing surfboards yesterday morning. getting dirty, itchy, and trying to focus on doing my best.
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yes, it’s back to summer weather here in hawaii. cool nights and very warm days. sunny and perfect!
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i’ve been hooked on my WR250. just like to come home from a long day, jumping on it, riding up a mountain, and enjoying the view and fresh air. finding some bamboo forest with no end to the other side this day.
then i came home the other day after surfing 7 hours ready to head to the mountain for sunset time. wanted to jump on the motorcycle but something seemed wrong? there were scratches all over, and the handlebars were bent??? OMG! my nieces boyfriend used it earlier that day and crashed it into a car!!! OMG! shock!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide