gosh, ever since i got back from japan, it’s been like summer here in hawaii. super blue sky, warm weather, warm water, and perfect waves. been exercising, been surfing, been diving, been working, been reading books, been doing yoga, and been busy having fun. now i know why millions of millions people come to hawaii for a vacation. it’s a vacation here everyday!
do you know how you can spot a surfer? just look at their ankles. if you see white to dark tan on both ankles, it’s from socks. if you see white to dark tan on one leg, it’s a surfer. on the right, it’s regular. on the left, it’s goofy. pretty interesting yeah? that’s how i can spot a surfer even in a big city like tokyo.
when you love something, take care of her. i took the truck to my friends house for the best cleaning. thank you Reid for the awesome polish and making the truck look like brand new again. gosh, it feels good driving a clean truck! i hope it doesn’t rain forever. haha.
Matsushita-san surfed for his first time and did awesome! first wave, stood up!
perfect wave, perfect balance, perfect style, perfect happiness. keep on surfing…