FREESIDE SURF

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i still get a lot of people asking me how japan is. my answer is still the same, “some places good, some places bad, and some places still the same. But, people are moving forward!” yeah, from 2 years ago to now, i can see people getting their lives back together. moving forward, thinking positive, and doing their best. if it was in any other country, i don’t know what would happen. but the japanese people are some of the strongest on earth. and that’s how i want to be too.
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before M1, i heard of a local surfer in ishinomaki that lost everything. his whole surf shop was gone! this was the first time i met Azumi-san as he took us to look at what was left of his shop. it was totally gone. at that time, he was smiling but i think that everybody was still in disbelief. till this day, i still can’t believe what happened. when i think about it before i sleep, i get nightmares.
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i will never forget the exact words Azumi-san told me as we were leaving his house. i told him to take care, and he told me “hey kirby, we are surfers so we will get through this.” i had to hold back my tears. this amazing tohoku local surfer taught me a lot just by his words and actions.
We Are One

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide