yesterday morning boys paddle out. Seigo-san and Yuki-san couldn’t have timed their trip any better. 3 weeks straight onshore winds before they came and just perfect weather for their 4 days here. they leave today and bad onshore winds here again for the next few days. so dam lucky!
Yuki-san kept on looking down and falling down yesterday morning. then after a while, i told him “hey Yuki-san, keep on looking down and falling down.” of course, i was joking. soon after, he looked up and never fell down after. reverse psychology? haha.
Yuki-san surfed for 3.5 hours catching wave after wave. this is the last shot before my gopro battery died.
2 days ago another golden morning surf session. i can’t explain how beautiful it is. you just have to experience it yourself. and once you do, you will understand why i like to start off my mornings in the ocean. even better than my bed.
when Seigo-san came on his first day, he could take off and just go straight to the right. but after 3 full days of boot camp, he was going up, down, side, side, and even doing cutbacks. i was also teaching him how to read and time the waves. pretty tricky, but once you can do it, you will understand the ocean and how it works. very important for surfing. good job Seigo-san.
yes, bend your knees and look forward. then you will do perfect cutbacks!
most of the island is sleeping during sunrise, not me.
the Marutaya cutback.
the Marutaya bottom turn. i think Seigo-san rode about a hundred waves on this trip. and all glassy ones!
a great 3 days with the wakayama boys. keep on surfing!
