Surfing El Salvador: Secret Beach Break

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el salvador was supposed to be a vacation for me. a time to relax, a time to take it easy, and a time to take it slow. but i don’t know how to take it easy and slow. once i got there, i was on an adrenaline buzz and wanted to see everything, do everything, and feel everything. so that’s what happened every day. fill up our rent a car and head to the beach before sunrise.
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i still can’t believe this 17 year old boy was our guide. he drove so slow and carefully. sometimes dangerous but i guess he still has a lot of learning to do. but i trusted my life in his hands and thank goodness we didn’t crash. Charlie reminded me of Toda-san for some reason. a big boy with a big heart.
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gas in el salvador cost more than hawaii. $3.95/gallon to be exact. and we rented this car from a local guy near our hotel for $35/day.
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it’s such a cool feeling to experience the beginning of a new day in another country. different colors and different feelings.
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luckily Charlie didn’t hit the cows, pigs, dogs, goats, and all the other animals that walk in the middle of the street.
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there is a very long stretch of beach that has beach break after beach break. barreling a-frames everywhere.
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we found ours and had it to ourselves all morning long.
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there would be hundreds of surfers on this wave if it was in hawaii and japan. unbelievable.
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we paid $2 for car security while we surfed. well worth it.
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and we got to see daily fisherman lifestyle.
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after our surf, we went to eat ceviches. in fact, we ate ceviches everyday. it was excellent!
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i couldn’t read the menu because it was in spanish. so i just pointed to something i thought was fish. it ended up being a mixed plate of shrimp. the bummer thing is i get a sore stomach if i eat too much shrimp. big mistake.
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then we went walking around in the fish market. very interesting.
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i wish you could smell what i smelt. very very fishy stinky.
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i really missed japanese food. so getting this fresh bag of rice from Saito-san made me really happy. good with my raw egg and natto breakfast.
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and got another treat. didn’t know what this was until i opened it.
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thank you Nishi-kun for my favorite mochi with kinako. i love it!
got about a thousand more photos on my desktop. expect lots more to come. have a wonderful day.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide