good evening. went to meet jun and team hiroshima down at bowls this morning for a surf. the waves were waist high and didn’t look too fun. so we headed to diamond head lighthouse and the waves were pretty dam good. overhead peeling rights with only 3 other guys out. so the 5 of us paddled out. actually 3 others but i count myself as 2 because i’m still dam hungry for surf. i’m still trying to catch 2 surfers share of waves ever since i got back from japan. i love surfing and feel like riding any kind of wave. sunburned, screwed up eye, and stiff neck. nothing’s stopping me… haha… talking about screwed up eye, i went to my eye doctor and he told me the bad news. the crap growing on my eye is getting bigger and i need surgery soon. shit!!! i’m tripping out a little and it still hasn’t sunk in….
after surf, we went to eat pho at my favorite place, hale vietnam. i don’t think they have pho in japan because every time i take somebody from japan to eat pho, they always tell me it’s their first time. unbelievable…. wouldn’t it be a good idea to open one up in japan? i think so….
i had my leftover chicken plate from the other day so went to share it with kalua…. geez, i didn’t realize how big kalua got. maybe 400lbs???
then i gave him a half a watermelon i had at my house. gosh, kalua is one lucky juicy looking pig. i took girls over to visit him so i asked my sister to put gel on kalua’s hair. styling yeah?? looks like some of the guys hair i see in night clubs. haha….
**by the way, i sent out the ear rings i gave away. somebody sent me an email saying that he wanted to give it to his wife for mothers day. what a nice guy. i don’t want to say his name for privacy reasons but it’s on the way to aomori. enjoy….
**and check out jun’s surf shop called “NINE SURF” in hiroshima, CLICK HERE….
