Gone Diving…..

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good morning. 5:45am and i didn’t get up early to surf small waves. i got up early to dive. no wind, small waves, clean water. i’m out of here…. have a nice day. oh, as for the waves. like i said, small. bowls is flat. well, maybe knee high. diamond head came way down too. knee/waist high. 5 guys out at the park and nobody out at rockpiles or bowls. grab a mask and check out the underwater world….

i took the naito family from chigasaki surfing last sunday. i had a really fun time with a really nice family. thank you yoshihiko-san, miho-san, and keito. hope you enjoyed your stay in hawaii. keep on surfing….

since i came back from thailand, i went to champa thai restaurant twice. but you know what, it’s all good. i’ll go there every night if i’m having a good time with my good friends. team hiroshima, kinsan, maki, and yukari-san…. thanks for the great time guys and gals….

we were one of the first to get there, and the last to leave…. why would you want to leave when your eating with these cool chicks. and drinking steinlager pure’s….. oh shit, it’s 6:15am already, i got to get going…. just saw a set at bowls. 20 inches and 3 guys are already on it. see ya….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide