i woke up early and drove down to the beach. first south swell of the year so no parking anywhere! so i decided to jump on Mayuki, which turned out to be the best decision i made all year.
heading out i stopped to shoot some photos while i checked out the waves. seen Gregg Nakamura on a good one.
then seen Ray on a late take off. the waves were building and building.
Nick Mita was out too. haven’t seen him in a while so stoked to see him ripping.
Uncle Billy B.
seen so many good waves so decided to park the boat and enter the lineup. omg, the waves were so good! surfed for 2.5 hours and caught some really good waves.
all the boys out getting their fair share.
the best front row seat in the ocean. i could have parked there all day and watched my friends rip it up.
even the bodyboarders having fun.
seen Keoni Yan bust the huge air@!! sick photo@!!!!
got super crowded so paddled over to the big bowl, waited and waited. then a freak set comes right to me and i scored a nice backside barrel! after that, i knew it was time for me to go in.
then went to check out big rights. was already surfed out but after seeing my longtime good friend Ronnie Yamada out, i had to go say hi and catch a few with him. the waves started pumping and got some nice barrels. i was super stoked surfing 4 hours in the morning. went in for a quick lunch.
then straight back out. now it was really crowded so i decided to go head to my secret spot.
seen Kinsan on magic island shooting all the action.
it was so weird how early in the morning it was so empty. then all of a sudden, everybody from everywhere started showing up.
i’d say the biggest wave of the day was solid 5′ hawaiian scale, or 12′ faces.
threesome. omg!
twosome. omg! dropping in is not cool at all.
this kid looked like Isaiah but ended up being some other ripper kid.
the wave of the day had to go to Makua Rothman. i was sitting front row with my camera and got the shot.
prefect grab rail barrel surfing. Makua happens to be the current WSL Big Wave Champion. so this wave was probably tiny for him.
Makua and Ronnie. locals only!
the drop in’s continued all day. welcome to bowls!
so i wanted so surf alone. the only place for that is my secret spot pretty far away. i knew nobody would be out because nobody is usually out. i’m pretty sure it’s because of the huge tiger sharks. i anchor Mayuki far away in the deep blue ocean. i get out my 5’8′ single fin, and ride the wave of my summer.
i was in the ocean from 8am to 5:30pm just scoring my best 3 sessions of the summer. i’m super stoked, and super sunburnt. and super tired. 9pm and i’m going down. good night.
