yesterday was yet another amazing day. it totally feels like summer all of a sudden. the water is warm, the weather is warm, and there’s waves everyday in town. short drives, long days, and everybody seems to be enjoying it. watching the girls yesterday was super fun. i always wanted to be a teacher someday in a classroom. but now, i’m realizing my classroom is in the ocean, not in a building. one of these girls i’ve been teaching how to free dive, surf, and enjoy nature for a very long time. now she can take that knowledge and teach her friends. yes, i still stress education to the youth, but i also stress personal experiences. if you can have both, i think will make you a more complete person.
dropped the girls off and picked up some friends for an afternoon surf. nothing like passing packed bowls and pulling up to a spot with nobody around. no hassling and no stress. just a few friends enjoying what the ocean provides. it’s days like this that make me realize the true meaning of surfing. Reid backside bottom turn.
it blows my mind away how surfing makes me feel so good. i can have the worst day in my life and once i ride a wave, everything is gone. i don’t know what i would do without it.
been kind of windy recently but once the winds back off, this spot will start to have clean barrels again. and we will be out there chasing it.
getting back to crowded surf and uncrowded surf. i like both. sometimes i like to surf with everybody. and sometimes i like to surf with nobody. everyday changes and it’s cool to be able to chose either or. if you’re a nightlife person, it’s like going to the most happening club one night, and just hanging out at a mellow bar another night.
the best way to end a perfect day. having a beer, listening to hawaiian music, and enjoying this beautiful island we call “Hawaii.”
and the bonus of driving back to waikiki just in time for the fireworks! it’s like the icing on the cake!
