woke up at 4:30am and drove out to the north shore for a dawn patrol session. raining, windy, and very dark. then the sun came out and, then the biggest double rainbow, and perfect glassy off shore conditions. was focusing on laniakea because i wanted to surf a long right point break. paddled out and only 1 guy beat me there. got into a good rotation as perfect rights kept on coming to me. after an hour, i was satisfied. stopped for some cream puffs at wailua bakery, then had a happy drive home.
spring is always best. when i was going in, there were only about 8 surfers out. 2-4′ off shore and absolutely no tourists or pro surfers. it was just locals only time.
always love taking the long way home. better scenery, better smell, and better greenery.
stopped by my favorite filipino food restaurant on the way back for my 4 choice combo for $8.99. cheap and really good!
then went out for a quick spin in the afternoon. gosh, there are so many turtles these days that you actually have to drive slow. they are so tame and just won’t move for you.
had a great time surfing with Moriguchi-san. super cool girl that loves to surf.
good riding Moriguchi-san! keep on surfing!
