Young Surfer: The Smile

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gosh, i just love taking kids surfing for the first time in their life. i know that the first time is the most important because they will either love it, or hate it. and i’ll do anything i can to make them love it. the first initial take off is classic because a little kids face don’t lie. look how nervous 12 year old Renta-kun is when he starts to ride his first ever wave.
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then once he gets going, the feeling is just too hard to explain. much better than any ride at disneyland. look at his face. so stoked!
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then as he’s about to stand up on his own, i’m sure he is thinking to himself “wow, this is fun!”
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Renta-kun’s first surf and did it very well. after i took him in, he was waiting on the beach for me and said he wanted to surf again. two sessions for this cool kid!
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a smile that i love to see. good job Renta-kun!
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then it was Saori-san’s turn. second time surfing and rode it perfectly.
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then Oshima-san wanted to surf a big wave so i took him to the outside. some sets were head high but he wanted to try. so stoked watching him ride some super clean big waves.
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such a funny and cool guy. thank you Oshima-san. glad you are hooked on surfing! see you again next week for some big waves again!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide