i had an awesome time with Yumi-chan today. we haven’t surfed together in a while so i wasn’t sure how she would do. on top of that, the waves were pretty big for her today. the biggest she’s ever surfed. i didn’t tell her that until we came in. haha. but from the first wave to last, she surfed perfectly!
but next time i see her, i’m going to scold her for standing on the reef! busted girl! haha.
thank you Yumi-chan for the wonderful day of surfing! keep on surfing and keep on hawaii!
i had a great time too. the waves were super fun for long boarding. feeling so good riding a swell to myself. no traffic, no people, and no noise. just me and the ocean feeling so content.
after we came in, it got so crowded all of a sudden. and super windy and choppy. perfect timing again!
last, here is a quote from the Duke. a quote that is in the history books of surfing. a quote that has a different meaning to everybody. but to me, this is an awesome quote most watermen can relate to.
“Out of water, I am nothing.” Duke Kahanamoku
