Shark Country

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after burning up in the hot sun yesterday, i called Kimura-san and Hayato and invited them to my run away spot. a surf spot that takes me away from the wild weekend crowd.
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Hayato jumps in first, then Kimura-san. i watch them paddle out and i wait with my camera.
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then i seen this big shadow swimming right in back of Kimura-san. it was a shark! i was going to yell “shark!!!” but i decided not too. if i did, we wouldn’t have had a great time. so i waited until after we all paddled in and told them. 5 minutes later, another shark swims by. i didn’t name this spot “tiger point” for nothing. you are on your own if we surf out there.
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Hayato got some really good waves.
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and even got barreled.
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this is the first time i took Hayato there and i’m sure it won’t be the last. a good place to relax and enjoy surfing. just don’t think about sharks. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide