i came home yesterday at 4pm. started downloading photos and working on my computer. all the time, watching the live surf cams. 5:30pm comes and things change. the contest is over for the day. the winds taper off. bowls started to look like mentawai. i drop all my work, shut down my computer, jump in the truck, and speed to the beach. i call Kimura-san and say “get ready! let’s go! we are going to score!!” we meet, we paddle out, and we have one of our best sessions ever! perfect 4′ barreling lefts and just a few kids out. i swear i thought i was in indonesia. surfed till sunset!
the Hawaiian Water Patrol have been making our oceanic events the safest on the planet. we are surrounded with water related sports almost every weekend. the Hawaiian Water Patrol guys not only make it safe, but these guys risk their lives for others. i mean they would die for someone they don’t even know. having an experienced waterman by your side watching everything you do is a sense of security.
my drivers were Kamalani and Clifton. two very highly qualified hawaiians from the north shore. normal photographers wouldn’t dare taking their $3000 camera into the ocean without a proper water housing. me? i just charged it without one because i knew these guys would keep me dry. and they did. want to thank Kawika, Kamalani, Clifton, and the other Hawaiian Water Patrol boys for taking care of me during the past 3 days. you guys are all cool hawaiians! thanks for keeping our oceans safe for us to play in!
yes, i was on the back of the ski in the best position possible watching and capturing all the action as it happened. i kind of felt guilty at times. when i came in, my sister told me “how the heck did you pull that off?” i just had to smile at that one.
Kaito Ohashi in round 3. gosh, Kaito surfs so good. action off the lip photo.
Joshua Moniz very smooth and powerful. he ended up losing to Shun in the last minute. bummed for Joshua, stoked for Shun.
Nick Mita flying high in round 3. sick photo Nick!
have so many photos to post, so little time like usual. a bigger swell on tuesday, and a bigger one this weekend. that means i’ll even fall more behind in work. sorry everybody for not replying to texts, calls, and emails. when the surf’s up, that’s all i think about. surf first, everything comes after. that’s been my life for the past 30 years and i don’t think it will ever change. gomenasai.
