between my morning and afternoon surf sessions yesterday, i had a 20 minute break. i was so sleepy after surfing in the morning and eating a poke bowl and shave ice. so i parked my car at ala moana park, climbed in the back seat, and slept. i couldn’t sleep well. i woke up 3x! how? i woke up to my own snoring! 3x in the 20 minutes. haha. i must have been really tired.
then i feel fresh again. pick up Matsui-san. we drive to bowls and i could see some change in the conditions. the earlier onshore winds made it really ugly, but i felt a slight chill in the air. that means, north winds! the winds switched from straight onshore to straight offshore. nobody around! only 3 guys out at bowls, and nobody out at rock piles! so we paddle to rock piles and surf alone. look how glassy the waves are! this is called “epic conditions!”
before we paddled out, Matsui-san told me the biggest wave he surfed in his life was chest high. i told him “today is your lucky day! the smallest wave out there is chest high.” haha. he looked nervous but i’m good at pushing people past their limits.
after 30 or so biggest waves in his life, Matsui-san felt like a reborn surfer. i was laughing after each wave he caught because i know that feeling all too well. then he would paddle back out with the biggest smile.
been watching this turtle swim up to me every time i go to rock piles. i’m thinking about naming her. such a cute baby turtle.
since nobody was out, i thought i’d grab a few waves too. always looking for the barrel.
in the soup, in the barrel.
imagine coming to hawaii and all of a sudden begin challenged to the biggest waves of your life? Matsui-san did wonderful going up over the big sets.
and when he couldn’t go over the waves, i taught him how to go under the waves. i swear there were some way overhead sets up to 4′. i would have been freaking out if i were him.
the afternoon was cloudy so it was pretty dark under water. look at Matsui-san diving under the hugest freak set!
by the end of the 3 hour session, Matsui-san surfed like a professional. good style and good balance. this is perfect surfing!
i’m sure when Matsui-san goes back to japan, the waves are going to feel tiny. good job surfer dude!
