monday was the biggest day of the swell. surfed it for 7 hours and felt like i was on a surf trip or something. i got home at night totally burnt. passed in the channel at bowls 6 times that day. stopped and watched for a wave or two. always one hand on my camera, and one hand on the throttle so i can run when the close out sets come. the best view in the world sitting high watching everybody getting barreled! check out this sequence.
this is perfect positioning. take off behind the peak, grab your rail, and set up for the barrel.
this is getting deep. still holding onto the rail so you can pull your board a little up and ride the high line.
this is commitment. knowing you will exit the dream tunnel.
i was watching boats begin super cautious. they would wait on the outside until the ocean seems calm. then when they get the chance, full throttle ahead!
this $200,000 boat captain wasn’t taking any chances. i wouldn’t either.
there have been many accidents with boat vs. wave in this channel. if you don’t pay attention, you could sink your dream boat in a minute. we’ve all seen it before.
the boys of the big bowl. super stoked to see everybody enjoying this wonderful first big swell of the summer season.
and yes, Ronnie always gets the best waves. he waits, waits, and waits. i’m pretty sure he waited a very long time for this one, and scored! looks like pipeline! and after i took this photo, i full throttled to get out of the way. scary!
