everyday i surf, i see a rainbow. in fact, sometimes i see hundreds of rainbows. all you have to do is position yourself behind a wave with the sun at your back. then go over the wave and watch the offshore spray fly off the wave. you will see it for sure.
there it is on the left side. a rainbow on every single wave. mornings and afternoons only. this is Yokomura-san into the rainbow. next time you go surfing, check it out.
for the past year, i’ve been seeing this little kid surfing every single day out at rock piles. he’s very shy and very quiet. i ask his name, he says “Aoi.” i ask his age, he says “12.” i keep on watching this kid trying and trying to get better every day. kind of reminded me when i was a kid his age surfing every day. so i go home, dig up an old Seth Moniz surfboard from under my house. i clean it up, take it to the beach, and give it to him. you should have seen his eyes. he was so happy but being so shy, he couldn’t express it. such a humble, quiet, and respectful kid. i wish i was like him when i was 12 years old, but instead, i was the total opposite. haha.
since then, i’ve been watching Aoi getting better and better on that magic board. watch out for this kid! Go-Aoi!
