Force 24

231

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surfing for 5 years, Shuto-san always wanted to do a cutback. yesterday was the day. first was to make sure to get the right speed to complete the cutback. she had no problem catching lots of waves and getting lots of speed.
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this wave was a good one. Shuto-san did a bottom turn, came up, and did a really nice cutback.
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knees bent, looking forward, most weight on the back foot, and everything else will follow. this is a perfect example.
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perfect surfing Shuto-san! i’m so happy that you did your first cutback yesterday! and also did about 15 more after that. so easy yeah! thank you for the wonderful day. keep on surfing and keep on smiling!
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i use to like to run away into the ocean to get away from this small island where everybody knows everybody. but now, everybody knows everybody even in the ocean. i see my friends all over the place. here is my friend Duke with his brand new custom made baby. a 24′ force that is set up to catch huge fish. good seeing you Duke and thank you for letting me borrow your fish bag that day. big help!
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and cool seeing Duke spending time with the kids. hawaii is all about the ocean and each time a kid can experience a day in it, it’s so precious. something you will never learn in a classroom.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide