i went to check out waikiki this morning and was surprised how many people were on the beach and in the water that early. imagine coming from a super cold country and waking up to this? now i know why people from all over the world love waikiki so much.
seen some nice waves at queen’s. haven’t been out there in a while. maybe next swell?
picked up Abe-san and had a super wonderful session! good to see Abe-san coming every year and looking leaner, stronger, and happier. and surfing much better. makes me want to do the same. thank you for super good surfing session this morning Abe-san!
went to check out diamond head after lunch and it was pretty much going off! super long glassy rights. a lot better than i thought it would be.
then picked up Michi-san from 2pm and pretty much surfed till 6:30pm. i couldn’t believe how much energy this girl has! she must have caught 25 perfect super long rides almost to the beach and paddled back out by herself. imagine doing that 25 times? but by 6pm, her arms finally got a little tired so we came in. great strength and endurance Michi-san! thank you for the inspiration! by the way, the waves came up this afternoon. had some solid shoulder high sets so hopefully tomorrow will be good!
came home and made kombucha. gosh, i must have saved about a thousand dollars already making it myself. this is expensive stuff in the store.
long day of surfing again. time to put my surfboard away and get out my suitcase. going to stay up late searching for an open flight. everybody asks me where i’m going but honestly i still don’t know. and i won’t know until the airplane takes off.
