yesterday afternoon as i was about to close my eyes for my afternoon nap, Matchi texted me “2 feet and going out now.” what??? i jump in the car, speed down to the river mouth, and see Matchi surfing out there alone. i wax up my board, join him, and it was the 2 of us enjoying some peaceful surf time. the river was flowing so the water was freezing. it was raining so that made it worst. i didn’t bring a wetsuit with me because i thought it was going to be warm. big mistake! i surfed anyway. cold turned to warm as soon as i rode a wave. stoke!
always like to walk around the TSSC factory to check out what’s going on. so many magic boards everywhere! i look at the shapes, the glassing, the airbrush, and the excellent quality.
and also originality. very innovative.
then i go to Matchi’s room to bother him. we talk about boards, surfing, and surfing.
then i load up my mini van with 6 magic boards that i will be using for the next few days. can’t wait!
