ok, yesterday was really good here in shikoku. morning better, but evening still good. super glassy perfect right hand point break as good as it gets. there is no wave in hawaii i can even compare this too. only in japan.
Matchi isn’t just my friend, Matchi shapes my boards. super smart, good shaper, and most important, a great person.
and when your shaper can surf this good, you know you’re going to get a magic board. good ripping Matchi!
Hinako is one of japan’s top girl surfers. she’s moving to australia for the next 2 years to boost her surfing and english skills.
i watched this girl go from a beginner with huge dreams, to a champion.
and if a girl can hit the lip harder than a lot of guys, she’s got game. good job Hinako-chan. wish you the best of luck in australia mate!
Matchi took me into some deep areas on this huge island. places i haven’t been before and places that tourists seldom or never visit. this is deepest japan.
then we pass by this temple that was in a small village. i had to stop to take this photo. this is as deep in japan as you can get. enjoy.
