A Daily Life in Shikoku

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gosh, seems like yesterday was a year ago. time just flies when you’re having fun. anyway, better document yesterday before i forget about it. started off with the golden colors of the land of the rising sun. so beautiful!
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we passed by a few spots on the way to our destination. this perfect left point had 5 surfers out, too crowded for us.
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i was walking around the road checking things out. started talking to the grandma’s waiting for the bus. they were so cute! the only thing is i couldn’t understand what they where saying??? country japanese dialect.
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dried squid. good for the bbq.
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and dried fish, good for the beer.
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coming all the way to japan from hawaii and getting good waves is a huge gamble. a gamble i’ve been taking for many years and will do for the rest of my life. pulling up to this empty lineup yesterday morning was like winning the jackpot. i still can’t believe how lucky we were!!!
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near where i stay, there is a little restaurant that serves the best and cheapest lunch. i always ask the lady to read off the amazing menu for me.
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this day, i ordered the saba and shrimp tempura teishoku.
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it was amazing! and can you believe everything on the menu is only 500 yen or $4? the cheapest and healthiest lunch in japan! if we had this back in hawaii, i’d eat here every single day.
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then went to a little snack shop to buy my dessert. mugi tea with mochi filled with azuki beans.
jumped on the ferry and came to wakayama last night. going to surf the swells here and head to the airport tonight. heard there is a high surf advisory for the south shores of oahu for the next 3 days. omg, wave magnet!!! have a wonderful day!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide