my last day in wakayama. seemed like years ago but it was just so recent. check it out.
japan surf culture amazes me. just do different from hawaii. you have guys that have been surfing their whole lives. you have guys from all walks of life. you have guys that come together when the swell arrives and till it ends. just pure 100% locals enjoying every ride. i love it.
then you have surf spots for everyone. then you have surf spots for locals only. this spot in particular is for locals only. if you don’t know anyone here, you pretty much can’t come here. these locals treat this special spot like it’s their own home. they keep it clean, organized, and regulated. i’m a total outsider and looking from the outside, i think this place is magical. each time these guys share their waves and surf culture with me, i am very thankful.
Kimura-san has been surfing here for really really long. i think over 70 years? haha. he’s not that old. just joking Kimura-san. one of the kindest men on earth.
one reason beginners can’t and shouldn’t come here is because it is very dangerous. just to get out is a challenge. then you have the super barreling wave breaking over very shallow reef. only for experts.
surfing in japan is all about respecting your elders. Kimura-san is one of the oldest guys out there and everybody respects him. it’s so good to see that. and when i think about it, i’m probably the only one in the world making trouble to him all the time. haha. that’s just my way of showing my love for someone.
then after a long day of surf, wakayama has the freshest seafood to make you even happier. this is a little broom fish we call in hawaii. people here don’t eat it, but in japan, it is a delicacy. the best sashimi ever!
when i spear one of these in hawaii, i never give it away. people don’t like it, but i love it!
and the best part of the fish is the liver! omg, it is so good!
then we had fresh abalone. alive in the tank just a few seconds before we ate it.
then the wakayama mangrove crab. omg, so soft and juicy meat!
then our friend Terra-san walks in with a bag of freshly picked matsutake mushrooms. the first harvest of the year! this is the most expensive mushroom in japan. so good!
i love wakayama. good waves, good food, and especially good people. thank you Kimura-san, Atsuko-san, Terra-san, and En-san Master for the wonderful time in wakayama. can’t wait to see you guys again.
right after dinner, i caught a bus to the airport. 30 minutes only and a beautiful ride through the mountains. a perfect trip indeed. thank you all again for making me the happiest traveler in the world.
