peak summer in japan so peak crowds at the pool. unbelievable.
OMG, japan is so small! i’ve been surfing with Nakamoto-san for the past few years in hawaii. i told him that he should go to eat ramen at Marutaya when he surfs in wakayama. so i get my seat, look to the left on the table next to us, and see Nakamoto-san! OMG! freaky! anyway, i wanted to say hi to his wonderful surf team. super stoked to meet you all!
i thought my chickens stopped laying eggs because when i got home, there were no eggs. come to find out, they found a new nest!
yeah, my fresh eggs again! can’t wait to eat um!
on the first day, i rode my short board. there were a few waves that i got in late and missed a good barrel. next day, i rode a longer board. no problem as i got into every barrel i paddled for. everybody else was on their small boards too and usually it’s ok. but this swell, no way! here is Glenn Minami getting a backdoor wave on his short board. after this, he paddled in to get his longer board. good call.
do you believe in mermaids? i sure do. i came in from surfing yesterday and seen the cutest mermaid on the beach waiting for me. i take her hand, we go back into the ocean and swim with the dolphins. we had lunch by eating a few lobsters and octopus, then she brought me back to the beach and we said our goodbyes. gosh, it was love at first sight!
