4 straight days of pumping surf? i really thought yesterday was going to be super small but i was wrong. still some solid sets with lots of power. the strongest and longest south swell ever? i think so.
Matsumoto-san was surfing the typhoon last week in miyazaki. now he’s in hawaii. same like me! chasing the waves or perfect timing? doesn’t matter what you call it as long as we’re riding big swells. perfect wave and perfect bottom turn.
followed by a nice off the lip. awesome surfing Matsumoto-san!
and of course, the duck dive. perfect!
very very happy surfers after such a great session. have a safe trip back to japan and keep on chasing typhoons Matsumoto-san!
long walls and glassy conditions. i love it!
yesterday i took this 9 year and 6 year old kids surfing. so stoked to see their facial expressions. the 9 year old kid kept on wanting to surf and never wanting to go in. i’m pretty sure he’s hooked! look at him almost getting barreled!
usually when i go to japan for a week, i get fat. yeah, usually gain about 3 kilos or 10 pounds eating that wonderful food. last trip, i lost weight because i surfed so much. came back to hawaii skinnier than ever. and ever since i’ve been back, i’ve been surfing so much that i’m losing even more weight. so every night i’ve been eating a lot of protein. came home last night and cooked up 2 steaks. ate 2 servings of rice and miso soup. gained some weight back for sure.
so good and so lucky i can eat anything i want for the next month as the waves continue to burn off every calorie i take in.
