super good sessions with Uchiyama-san. cool surfer from Chigasaki with so many awesome dreams.
morning session was low tide so you had to choose the right one. Uchiyama-san on the right one.
afternoon was easier. all the waves were pretty much open. if you were in the right place, you will get the right wave. just like this.
great surfing!
glassy off shore conditions. a surfers dream. thank you again Uchiyama-san!
and yeah, i had to get a few waves for myself too. barrel again!
cutback.
word travels fast here in hawaii. everybody’s been asking me about Super Sunday at big rights. it was incredible. solid 6′ sets and looking like Off The Wall. only a few guys out because most surfers couldn’t make it out. had a great time in the lineup talking to my longtime friend Ross Williams. just taking turns pulling into barrel after barrel. after i caught mine, i seen Ross paddling for a good one. i pull my camera out of my pocket and snap a few shots as i paddle over the wave. i came home and couldn’t believe the results! here is Ross setting up to get barreled. look how big this wave is and look at the barrel behind him. freaking amazing!
you probably never ever seen a barrel shot like this at Big Rights before because it never ever barrels like this. no photographers were out except me taking these photos of this one wave. so here it is, Ross Williams in the big barrel. you might have to wait another 30 years to see something so amazing like this out there. solid 6′, light off shore, clean water, blue sky, and epic waves. can you believe this is Honolulu, Hawaii? i can’t. i’ve never missed a good day out at Big Rights because i was always waiting for a day like this. that day has finally come. July 26, 2015. amen.
