good evening. checked the waves this morning and right before i left my house, i seen ants marching out to bowls and ala moana park. i guess the news was out on this new south swell. it was packed with surfers so i headed to diamond head. thank goodness for the road construction there so it kept surfers away. not me. i just pulled my car into the lookout and bummed out some tourist trying to stop for a photo. parked my car, and paddled out to lighthouse where it was firing… super good waves with a super good vibe… no longboarders, no drop ins, and no tourist. i had an awesome session….
**waves this evening came up even more. seen some solid overhead sets at bowls and the park. know what that means… yeah, big rights tomorrow…. see ya…
jeannie chesser is the bomb. super cool, rips, and doesn’t take shit. i’ve known her since i started surfing. she’s one of the best surfboard airbrush designers in the world. she’s battling cancer and has such a positive attitude about it. always smiling and enjoying life…. see her in the water, better not drop in…. check out jeannie’s website by CLICKING HERE….
and horay!!! obama wins!!! hillary clinton finally gave up and went home. obama made history for being the first black to lead the democratic party. and also made history for being the first person out of hawaii to almost lead our country. i said almost. one more obstacle but if obama becomes president, he told me that he’s going to start surfing… haha.. just joking….
and last, i called my travel agent today to book my ticket to japan. she told me it costs $1,269. what???? are you kidding??? so i came home and tried to figure out how i was going to get there. problem solved…. just call me “rocket man”….
