Interview: Hawaiian Surfer Girls…

300

good morning. 6:10am wednesday morning. wow, i had to look twice when i checked the waves. it’s packed!!! i’ve never seen so many people out this early in the morning before. 23 surfers out at rockpiles, 30+ out at bowls, and over 50+ at the park. crazy…. and you know what? the waves aren’t even that big. it looks smaller than yesterday afternoon… i see only one chest high set in the last 20min. but maybe it’s the low tide. i figure when the tide turns, the waves should get bigger and more consistent. i want to surf but not with all that guys out. maybe wait till everybody goes to work. or did everybody call in sick today? yeah, that’s hawaiian style. if the waves are up, nobody shows up to work…. the tell their bosses they came down with a cold and show up to work the next day with a nice tan and a big smile on their faces. come on… anyway, like holli says, “what ever works”…..

went to hanaki last night. do you know where that is? it’s in manoa market place and has all you can eat japanese food for $20/each. sashimi, poke, crab, tempura, sushi, desert, and pretty much everything you can imagine. i think when i go there, they lose money….

why? because i eat about 4 plates of crab, and all the other expensive stuff. no rice or starch. save that for the kids…. i ate enough crab to last me a while. thanks for dinner mom….
**had the two girls in front of the camera last week at bowls during the surf into summer contest. classic stuff.. check it out…. oh, i asked kelia to say a message to her fans. here it is “never take life for granted because you never know when it can be taken away from you. so live life to the fullest.” huh? when i was a teenager, my message next to my name in my high school yearbook was “drop the books and party”…. are you sure we’re related? haha…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide