good evening. where did you surf today? a pretty fun 3′ south swell with perfect trade winds making good conditions everywhere. it’s been a while since i went to big rights so big rights it was. it wasn’t really big rights today, it was more like medium rights. but super fun. had a bunch of guys out but i don’t mind when big rights is crowded. because everybody takes turns catching waves out there. wait, don’t believe that. not if ronnie yamada is out. he catches everything. haha. just joking ronnie… i had a fun session but kind of felt bad when i came in. why? because i accidently dropped in on kyle on my last wave. i had to come in so i took off on a wave and didn’t look back. i knew somebody was behind me but i didn’t care. well, until i saw kyle… sorry kyle.. i owe you one… or two.. but hey, checked the forecast and back to back to back south swells on the way. nothing huge but fun surf for a while. my friends been asking me why i haven’t been shooting recently. my answer. because i’m a surfer… get it? haha.. i think that’s funny because everybody rather see me taking photos rather than taking the waves… when i get a little burnt out, i’ll bust out my camera. but until then, go easy…
BUSTED!!! imagine being a pervert like that guy and getting caught? i wonder what his wife will say when she sees this photo? or his kids? or maybe his boyfriend???? what an idiot. if that was my friend, i would kick him in the nuts…. well, if he even had any….
**got an email from gerry from sagana resort….
he says cloud 9 has been smoking so far this year…. shit, i wish i were there…. uncrowded perfect barrels? ahhh…..
yeah, i’ve been there and done this. after leaving cloud 9, i always tell myself that i had enough. but after seeing photos like this, i didn’t get enough. i want more and more….
check out crowded rock island. packed yeah? haha.. freakin nobody out!! ahh…. i have to go because i’m starting to feel sick…. thanks gerry….
